Overall plan:

Phases:

1. Deck construction.
2. Soil improvement
3. Irrigation
4. Electrical
5. Build Planter, Hardscaping
6. Install plants, add fir

 

Complete.  Site now looks as follows:

Summary: Use a rototiller and mix in about 3" of new soil to add air, and restore Ph and mineral balance if neccessary.

Detailed Plan:

1. Sample the soil and test for Ph, mineral content, loam/clay/dirt
• Ph
• Potash
• Phosphorous
• Nitrogen
2. Determine the kind of new soil to mix in to improve the existing soil
3. Soften the soil by watering several days before work begins
• Done
4. Determine the amount of soil needed
• See below
5. Order soil delivered
6. Insure the rototiller can go through the gate
7. Attach trailer hitch to truck
8. Rent rototiller
9. Spread new soil
10. Rototill

• Soil test kit (already bought)
• Large Wheelbarrow
• Gloves
• Shovels
• New soil (from Mountain View Garden Supply:)
• Rototiller (from Taylor Rental / United Rental:)
• Trailer hitch
• Plywood or something to allow rototiller to go over deck

Summary: Dig 12" deep trenches for the pipes and create four zones of irrigation.

Head Locations and water mains, Zone 1.  Question:  Should there be two mains down the walkway?  The trencher might have difficulty making the trenches in such tight quarters.  Alternative might be to make side branches.

Zone 2

Question, should zone 2 cover both sides of the planter?  The side with heads 2C to 2I is in shade, while the other side is in sun.  Using two zones might make it easier to keep the sunny side watered without flooding the shady side.

Question: Should there be heads on both sides of the planter?  Will plants block the water from the back of the planter?

Zone 3

Question: Should there be heads on the side of the strip next to the deck?  The current location next to the fence has the risk of spraying on the deck itself, which would cause water damage and increase the rate of decay.

Zone 4